In one of Italy’s undeniably fervent drinking cities, there’s a bacaro, a no-frills, local tavern around every corner. Whether you prefer an ombra of Pinot Grigio or a pour of natural wine, Venice has a watering hole waiting for you.
LessThis small Rialto market-adjacent watering hole opens at 10am and caters to half-local, half-tourist trade. It serves spritzes and a few tap beers and offers an extensive wine-by-the glass-list (all are also available by the bottle) focused on northeastern Italy and including some natural wine options. The tiny counter displays small sandwiches and fried balls (meat, eggplant, and tuna).
Since 2014, Vino Vero has championed natural wines from Italy, Slovenia, Spain, and France. Place your order at the counter in the wine bar’s tiny space, choosing cicchetti like baccalà mantecato or mortadella with pistachio pesto and wines by the glass or bottle, which line the walls, floor to ceiling. Opt for an Italian by the glass or a bottle of Zibibbo from Pantelleria. The bar has some canal-side seating that becomes competitive real estate in the warmer months.
Just off the canal of Fondamenta della Misericordia in Cannaregio. this bar has a handful of tables on the sidewalk and a few more in the cozy exposed-brick interior. The atmosphere is far less pretentious than the other natural wine spots in town, which makes it all the more enjoyable to hang out with a bottle and a few cicchetti of prosciutto cotto and salted anchovies. Among the satisfying bites on offer at La Sete are *tramezzini*, finger sandwiches on white bread filled with speck .
Located in artsy Dorsoduro, Adriatico Mar serves wine and ingredients coming primarily from the regions in northeastern Italy touched by the Adriatic Sea. There are wines from the Carso and Colli Orientali in Friuli and Breganze in the Veneto and a particular emphasis on the various Malvasia grape varieties that were traded in the Adriatic since the Middle Ages. These accompany seafood like pesce crudo from the lagoon and whipped salt cod with polenta.
A Venetian institution in Dorsoduro near the Academia, this old school enoteca is a standing-room-only affair. Find a place at the fast-pace counter and order an ombra of Pinot Grigio Ramato poured from a large, unlabelled bottle for around a euro and a few classic cicchetti like a thick wedge of mortadella spiked with a pickled pepper or vinegar-rich tuna salad heaped on a small round of bread.
Tucked away near the Rialto Bridge, Sepa does a little bit of everything. The counter displays a couple dozen cicchetti, (small bites)including locally caught cuttlefish (“sepa” in Venetian dialect). There are a few dishes made to order from the kitchen like *frittura mista* (mixed fried seafood), as well as a rotating daily risotto menu.. The wine, from the Veneto, is poured from taps in the back room and served in volumes ranging from a glass to a magnum.