Hacer el vermut (literally “to do the vermouth”) describes not just the delicious fortified wine, but a very Barcelona tradition of a pre-lunch aperitif. Our guides at Culinary Backstreets share the best spots for getting your vermouth on.
LessWith its high walls lined with colorful bottles, the tiny Quimet & Quimet is a charming tapas bar in El Poble Sec. Open since 1914 (when it was a wine shop), Quiment has always offered preserved tapas – growing progressively more contemporary with each decade. For example, the bar’s montadito sandwich of smoked salmon with Greek yogurt and truffled honey, or another of anchovies, Catalan goat cheese, tomato marmalade and pickle, pair well with Yzaguirre Rojo Reserva, a sweet artisanal vermouth.
One of the gastronomic highlights of Barcelona’s vermuteo (“vermouthing”) phenomenon is the project Morro Fi, which includes four bars, a blog, an online shop and a line of vermouths and high-quality canned products (olives, peppers, cured fish and much more) produced in collaboration with their suppliers. Once a bare-bones corner spot for L’Eixample locals, the new owners have brought new life to Morro Fi and the city’s vermouth scene.
One of the finest spots in town to honor the noble vermouth tradition is Cala del Vermut, a popular watering hole bursting with local character in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. No bigger than a rowboat, this cozy little bar has been serving sweet red vermouth on top for over 40 years. Their tapas are both classic and delicious, including anchovies, croquettes and patatas bravas. This is the way vermut is to be enjoyed, standing around a wine barrel in the company of friends.
Opened in the 1950s, the only thing that has changed at Bodega Quimet are the owners – low prices and the décor remain. There are wooden tabletops, a floor of traditional Spanish tiles and walls lined with large, rustic wooden barrels of jerez, port, moscatel and, of course, vermouth. Further greatness lies in the tapas of grilled octopus & mashed potato, stuffed squid with marinated vegetables, and the simple but sublime baby fava beans with Iberian ham and a poached egg.
For those looking for a little more than an aperitif, walk your glass of vermouth past the wooden barrels at this Gràcia wine shop for seriously delicious plates of home. We love the anarco bravas (garlic and squid ink potatoes) or the “Destroyer,” pureed potatoes topped with jamon, morcilla (black pudding) and bacon. Everyone orders the pan-fried foie gras in a boozy port, raisin and apple sauce. Come hungry – the portions are generous – and ready for a sweet glass of highly quaffable vermut.
On the edge of Gràcia, this tiny, laid-back venue is exactly what we look for in a neighborhood spot. It specializes in vermouth, with an impressive selection of over 25 varieties. The knowledgeable staff can make recommendations based on your preference, as well as offer up tapas pairings. In fact, many come for vermouth only to be seduced by owner Lourdes Branco’s elaborate and tasty hot tapas. We love her croquetas, which come in as many flavors as the vermouth, and her potato bombs.
A taver-teca is the kind of place where the classic mejillones en escabeche (typical canned marinated mussels) are prepared with care from fresh shellfish and the Catalan vermut is homemade. El Tiet in the heart of Gràcia is no exception, and the cozy atmosphere and affordable prices make this tavern a favorite among locals and tourists alike. Known for its excellent vermouth selection, with both local and international varieties, the bar also serves traditional Catalan tapas.
More than a simple bar, Casa Mariol is a winery from Terra Alta that produces several kinds of wine and vermouth with accessible prices, available by the bottle or in bulk from the wooden barrels. Their shop on Carrer Roselló, which is close to the Sagrada Familia, also offers bar service with tables. Here, you can have a glass of vermut made from Macabeu grape and 150+ herbs in the company of a very good selection of cured and preserved foods – from cockles & stuffed olives to ham & cheese.
Although shaped by a diverse set of international influences, the working-class Sants neighborhood’s sophisticated culinary scene is tied together by something more local: vermut culture. La Mundana is a “gastronomic vermutería,” a small bar with 14 kinds of vermut on offer, (as well as wine, cava and other drinks). The small plates coming out of the kitchen are diverse, and the vermouth is best paired with a pickled treat, like a skewer of succulent olives, piparra chiles and boiled quail eggs.
Originally a 1920s cellar and shop for bulk wine called Casa Paco, now Bodega Josefa in El Farró offers one of the best homey lunch menus and vermut aperitifs in the area, as well as stomping grounds for neighborhood FC Barcelona fans. The walls, packed with posters, press clippings and photos, also boasts a picture of Barça President Joan Laporta with the bodega owner by his side. Besides the Barça love, the bodega’s Thursday rice dishes are legendary in the neighborhood.