Portland has been experiencing a boom as skilled chefs and entrepreneurs “from away” have settled in the city for a higher quality of life, near to nature and with a strong sense of community. Here's where to stay, eat and drink.
LessWHERE TO EAT: Ten years after scoring big with its superb raw bar and Asian-inflected seafood small plates, Eventide is still a must-try. Don’t miss the brown-butter lobster roll, served on a Chinese-inspired steamed bun.
WHERE TO EAT: Local ingredients and handmade pasta shine in plates like roasted-carrot ravioli and squid-ink spaghetti. Try the rigatoni Bolognese, whose intensely flavorful beef-and-pork ragú takes two days to make.
WHERE TO EAT: Southwestern takes on Maine seafood, including Baja-style haddock tacos and michelada-soaked Casco Bay mussels, are delicious—but Terlingua’s real calling card is its brisket, which cooks for 12 hours in an on-site smoker. Picnic tables in the terraced backyard make this buzzing East End spot a good place for groups.
WHERE TO DRINK: Small plates such as fried eggplant in a sweet-and-spicy miso sauce form one part of the Japanese-inspired menu here. Skewers of binchotan-grilled chicken, shiitake mushrooms and more (including the hard-to-resist “Big Mac”) form the other—and there are almost 50 sakes on offer.
WHERE TO EAT: Maine meets the eastern Mediterranean in this lofted space in the heart of the Old Port. The zaatar-flecked chickpea fries (a house favorite) and flavorful falafel and vegetable dishes make Evo a solid vegan option.
WHERE TO EAT: Über-refined “modern New England” dishes—including the croissantlike lobster roll—are served in an intimate, Nordic-feeling dining room. The pollock with carrot bisque is a standout.
WHERE TO EAT: Although it’s a chain, Luke’s is family-owned and was founded by a third-generation lobsterman. It does the seafood standards better than most, and its airy, two-story flagship has a perfect pierside location.
WHERE TO STAY: Portland’s leading full-service luxury hotel occupies a seven-story former newspaper building just up from the waterfront among many of the best galleries and restaurants. The 110 guest rooms (325 square feet and up) offer Frette linens, Maine-made Brahms Mount throws and bathrooms with floor-to-ceiling Carrara marble.
WHERE TO STAY: Working fireplaces and a well-stocked communal pantry make it easy to feel at home in this casually stylish 15-room inn. It’s housed in an 1823 mansion in the West End, a five-minute drive (or a 15-minute walk) from the Old Port.