As a food journalist, cookbook author, and founder of Soif (a wine bar and agency), I always have a recommendation for where to eat, drink, or dance. These are my favorite places right now.
Less📍Added in October: I admit I need a real reason to get to the 18th arrondissement, on the other side of the Butte Montmartre. But if it means eating at Le Boréal, I’m there. It’s called a bistro, but Le Boréal has all the qualities of a fine-dining restaurant, with its refined and delicate cuisine. I still think about my last visit, devouring sea urchin in vin jaune sauce by the spoonful. It’s a memory I’ve had to sigh over, as the menu changes regularly, much to my delight.
📍Added in October: Of all the restaurants in Belleville, this well-kept secret is my favorite. Hailing from Zhejiang in China, Beilei and Beilei, the couple who run the place, take diners on a tour of the region, while dabbling in Sichuan cuisine. The menu is long, yet I always order the same thing: shouci baocai—hand-torn Chinese cabbage stir-fried in a wok and served in a Sichuan peppercorn sauce—along with their delicious fried tofu.
📍Added in October: Cuisine will make you lose your sense of time and space. The plates act as bridges between France and Japan, like the signature dish of decadent, deep-fried karaage-style pigeon or the delicate monkfish liver soaked in the house ponzu sauce. It’s all so refined—just like the setting. You become immersed in a timeless, intimate ambience, and the wine list only adds to the effect.
📍Added in October: A great sandwich is no simple feat. It takes a certain talent to achieve the synthesis of fat, crunch, and pillowy chew. Well, Sandwichette: Mission accomplished! A bite of their best-selling tuna melt—with spring onions, gherkins, tuna, just the right amount of cheddar, and a hit of chili—and I was a believer. Don’t miss their creations of the moment, like a vegetarian sandwich with crispy rice.
📍 Added in October: This simple, warm, family-run brasserie is one of my favorite spots. Here, the art of service is passed down from mother to son. The same goes for the love of wine: Just take a look at their extensive, well-crafted wine list, which accompanies classic French dishes such as andouillette (a rustic sausage) or bulots (whelks) mayo. Add the ambience and decor of an old Parisian brasserie, and you too will feel right at home.
Brion has all the trappings of an ideal business-lunch spot: comfy seats, quiet atmosphere, and impeccable service. A touch of classicism lingers in the air, a legacy from chef Geoffrey Lengagne’s extensive time in Michelin-starred kitchens. At Brion, he turns each dish into a triumph, thanks in large part to glossy, flavorful, comforting sauces that elevate every plate. It’s proof that the classics stay so for a reason.
Between Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, Les Deux Gares welcomes all types of travelers: those on a coffee break, busy lunchtime workers, and gourmands who come to soak up the spacious terrace. But it’s the cuisine that truly leaves an impression. It appears simple, crafted from a few ingredients, yet chef Jonathan Schweizer always hits the mark. What stands out most are the flavors and freshness of the vegetarian plates, often with a hint of sea breeze.
There are sandwiches, and then there are sandwiches at Chez Aline. Here, French classics—like chicken pot-au-feu or herring-and-potato salad—get tucked into a baguette. Even the classic jambon beurre stands out, thanks to the high-quality ingredients. Come early to choose from the dozen or so sandwiches chalked up on the board. And while you’re at it, soak in the charm of this former horse-butcher shop, still rich with character.
At Clamato, obviously, you’ll be able to try the namesake tomato-juice-and-clam cocktail, but most importantly, you’ll get a serious iodine boost. Seafood is presented in either its purest form or delicately crafted, like that black mullet with kimchi and pear, or the cockles in vin jaune. This seafood annex of the Michelin-starred Septime is open seven days a week, no reservations needed. Just a heads-up: The bill can climb pretty fast. But trust me, it’s totally worth it!
The restaurant world of Paris is always in flux: Chefs and sommeliers dart in and out, opening their own ventures. In the minimalist decor and the soulful plates at Dandelion, you’ll find echoes of the places where Morgane Souris and Antoine Villard honed their skills. Souris’ carefully curated wine list perfectly complements Villard’s French cuisine. My favorite dish: the veal sweetbreads in tonnato sauce.