This hotel dates back to the 1930s and remains one of the go-to spots in the capital, especially now it has a sleek rooftop bar and restaurant, where you can indulge in sushi while overlooking the skyline to the river Tagus beyond. It also has 285 spacious rooms, a spa, a garden with a round swimming pool and a restaurant, Cervejaria Liberdade – try the Aveiro Lagoon oysters.

For a sense of place, few hotels in Lisbon surpass this hotel, set in the bougainvillea-clad, cobbled streets of Alfama, the oldest neighbourhood in the capital. From the chic red rooftop pool you overlook winding streets and the magnificent Tagus. Bedrooms are light-filled and simply furnished with an authentic Portuguese warmth. In winter, take a plate of regional hams and cheeses and gather around the rooftop fire pit to watch Lisbon’s famous sunset.

From the rooftop Rossio Gastrobar, the view down the wide Avenue de Liberdade is memorable, but so too are the oxtail croquettes with homemade mustard and the squid with shitake mushrooms and citrus butter sauce. Beneath this, seductively glamorous bedrooms mix glossy black and gold with art nouveau trimmings. Bathrooms come in sleek marble and the linen and leather headboards are butter soft.

The only hotel inside the São Jorge Castle compound, Solar Do Castelo sits within an 18th-century building constructed on the site of the former royal palace kitchens. It brims with character with exposed stone walls and ancient blue and yellow hand-painted tiles. At its heart is a pretty patio, while the 20 bedrooms mix natural woods and a warm red.

In fashionable Principe Real, this five-star retreat is the flagship hotel of the Memmo group. It houses real Portuguese luxury across the 41 rooms, with artisanal wares such as glass lamps and bespoke hats on display. The restaurant, which has views over the swimming pool to the city beyond, is also excellent – try the cuttlefish tempura with avocado and lime mayonnaise.

The grande dame of boutique hotels in Lisbon, Bairro Alto in downtown Chiado, was reborn after a major refurbishment and extension. Now bedrooms are an essay in luxury, while the fifth-floor restaurant under the helm of acclaimed chef Nuno Mendes draws on Portuguese bounty from the land and sea; think smoked goose barnacles on toast or aged beef tartare with red cabbage and egg yolk.

The Vintage is a quietly charming neighbourhood hotel housing 53 rooms and three suites. It has a contemporary Portuguese restaurant at street level, a spa and a leafy rooftop restaurant with a bar and outdoor cinema. Rooms in rich, bold colours are divided into categories – Inspire, Relax and Play – and come with mid-century design details such as a trolley bar cart with a complimentary gin and tonic kit.

You know you’re in Lisbon when you peer out from your front room and see trams rattling by or the City Hall where the Portuguese Republic was declared in 1910. Nestled into a corner of a cute central square, AlmaLusa sits inside a restored historic building. It neatly combines period features (flagstone floors, original fireplaces) with modern comforts, and all rooms are slightly different in size and decor. A good breakfast is served in the downstairs restaurant.

Down near the waterfront, the LX Boutique Hotel was one of the first places to launch the formerly rundown district of Cais de Sodré into the hip category. This tall, former townhouse is now home to individually styled rooms, all spacious with shutters and lofty ceilings – the best come with river views. The downstairs restaurant, Confraria LX, is rated one of Lisbon’s top places to eat and drink and offers a complimentary sushi sample every afternoon.

Slightly away from the hectic centre, this 18th-century former townhouse exudes historical charm. While the hotel is small and intimate, with a relaxing lounge and attractive walled garden where a giant buffet breakfast is served, its rooms are surprisingly spacious, with period furnishings. The place to hang out at As Janelas Verdes is the top-floor library, which has a terrace offering incredible views over the city and broad Tagus Estuary. Many of the rooms share the same panorama.