Any excuse to go to Hugo’s is one you should take. This Montrose institution is the first place many Houstonians run to when looking to celebrate an anniversary, birthday, or go to a brunch with a mile-long buffet. It also helps that the space is a stunner—between the high ceilings and glistening chandeliers, the dining room may as well be a castle. If you’re at Hugo’s for dinner, get the chapulines served with pillowy tortillas, some slow-roasted barbacoa, and sweet churros for dessert.

Tatemó, an intimate (but totally unpretentious) Mexican tasting menu and brunch restaurant specializes in nixtamalizing heirloom varieties of Mexican corn in-house and making the tortillas by hand. Throughout the $125 six-plus courses during dinner, the food delivers beautiful simplicity: aromatic blue corn quesadillas, a tortilla draped in a blanket of nutty, rich mole, thick sopes obscured in a blanket of soft shaved cheese, and so on.

There is something about eating a plate of smoky fajita beef smothered in cheese and spicy salsa around 11pm, especially if it’s being enjoyed off the hood of your car in front of El Taconazo. The Mexican food truck on the northside may not have any tables or chairs, but it does have lengua quesadillas, al pastor tacos, and pepper-stewed charro beans with your choice of griddled meats.

This Mexico City-style spot in Montrose is best known for its lively brunches, usually replete with cocktails and mariachis. The colorful restaurant, filled with floor-to-ceiling illustrated murals, also serves a fantastic lunch and dinner menu nearly every day of the week, featuring some of Mexico City’s greatest hits. You can dive into crispy chicken flautas with salsa verde and earthy and nutty fried huitlacoche quesadillas. We can’t get enough of the empanadas de ate con queso for dessert.

Watching a seasoned taquero slice a trompo is a thing of beauty. Which is to say, the folks running the Tacos La Sultana taco truck in the East End really know what they’re doing. Tacos are served Monterrey-style, in which pork gets seasoned with nothing more than smoked paprika, and here, the meat slices are seared again alongside oil-warmed corn tortillas. The pork is juicy, with pockets of sweet, caramelized fat.

Both the taco-obsessed and Houston’s growing legion of kombucha freaks can easily find a home at Cochinita & Co., the Mexican kitchen inside Kickin’ Kombucha’s East End cafe. Cochinita & Co. is named for the traditional Yucatan dish cochinita pibil, in which tender roast pork gets marinated in citrus and warm, peppery achiote. Each bite bursts with tangy, meaty goodness. It’s frankly kind of rude that more food doesn’t automatically regenerate on the plate.

Laredo Taqueria in Washington Heights automatically makes some of the best flour tortillas in town, and the daily line of people outside seem to agree. The handmade flour tortillas taste warm, pillowy soft, and rich, especially when enveloping fatty barbacoa, spicy pollo guisado, or breakfast eggs with crispy bacon or potato tacos. And yes, while you can order corn tortillas, those are made to order and that just slows down the line, and you don’t want to be that person.

When you walk into Tio Trompo in the Washington Corridor neighborhood, the first thing you’ll see (and smell) is the giant trompo rotating in all its glory. Inside, Tio Trompo is a modest spot, with floral tablecloths on the tables— and it’s a great place to watch a game on the TV with a sizzling pastor taco or with a taco arabe that tucks the spiced pork into a pillowy piece of pita bread. This casual spot also serves breakfast tacos all day.

For all the times you’ve desperately craved, like, 10 different kinds of ceviche, there’s La Cruderia, a mariscos and michelada spot in Bellaire. We appreciate the sheer number of ceviche options here, like the vegetal Ceviche Nayarita with lime-cooked white fish, carrots, and green tomato. Or the mouth-searing Ceviche Yucateco loaded with habanero. Throw in a cochinita torta or a few quesabirria tacos to balance the acid.

You might think stumbling upon a defleshed cow skull in a parking lot is a bad omen, but at Gerardo’s Drive In, a meat market and taqueria on the Northside, that just means the barbacoa is ready. Open on weekends only, Gerardo’s has been slow-steaming barbacoa since 1977. Order a few smoky and tender tacos at the counter to eat there, or snag a few pounds to-go. Gerardo’s will even sell you the entire cow’s head for around $100.