Much like the burger at Peter Luger, the one at Red Hook Tavern is all about the meat. It’s just one big patty with American cheese and a cross-section of onion on a sesame bun that plays its role perfectly without causing any distractions. The burger is intensely rich and salty - but we’re pretty sure we could eat several in one sitting. Maybe that’s because the patty is surprisingly light for its size, or maybe it’s because we lack self-restraint.

The burger at Raoul's is unlike any other on this list—because every inch of the patty is encrusted with black peppercorns. If you like black pepper, you'll love this thing. If you don't, you'll still probably enjoy it. Rather than cheddar or American, the burger comes topped with creamy St. Andre cheese (in addition to cornichons and watercress), and the whole thing is intensely buttery. The fries that come on the side are also perfectly crisp and salty.

We know the single vs. double debate comes down to personal burger-eating preferences, but after having both options at Nowon in the East Village, here’s where we stand: you’ll taste every ingredient more prominently in their new medium-rare Pat Lafrieda single-patty burger. By comparison, their double smash patty feels like eating gobs of tangy kimchi mayo and American cheese with a side of burger. If you like to taste high-quality steak meat in your burgers, you’ll love Nowon’s thick version.

Yes, at $33 this burger is ridiculously expensive, but this isn’t a list of the most morally defensible foods in NYC. The Black Label Burger at Minetta Tavern was one of the first super-luxe burgers in the city, and it’s still one of the best. Maybe it’s the butter-basted patty made from dry-aged ribeye, or the mound of caramelized onions, or the custom Balthazar bun. Or maybe it’s all three.

Despite having only a few ingredients, the cheeseburger from 7th Street keeps digging its way into our brains Inception-style. Roughly-chopped sweet onions are pressed into a 75/25 Schweid & Sons beef patty as it’s smashed with a spatula, resulting in something that’ll remind you of a White Castle slider. The whole thing, with its gooey yellow American cheese, is an unapologetic salute to salt and fat. When you stop by, you’ll probably see a big crowd blocking the sidewalk.

Swoony’s in Carroll Gardens is the type of restaurant where you’d want to stop in for a burger and martini on a weeknight, so it’s a good thing they nail the burger. Two thin patties are bound by American cheese, topped with pickles, and a generous amount of Thousand Island dressing that drips through your fingers. In a delightful twist, they’ve found something even softer than a potato bun to serve it on: a toasted and buttered Portuguese roll.

4 Charles is from the people behind Au Cheval, and the burger here is similarly fantastic. Like at Au Cheval, it has two patties, tons of cheese, plenty of sauce, and a bun that soaks it all up. The burger is cut tableside by a white-gloved server, and it’s often shared as an appetizer before the $99 prime rib arrives. 4 Charles looks like a rich uncle’s cigar room, and it’s nearly impossible to get a reservation before 11pm. But once you’re in, it’s one of the best burger experiences in NYC.

Though more accessible than 4 Charles, this is still one of the more annoying-to-acquire burgers on our list. Le B sells just nine burgers a night, and they’re only available off-menu at the bar, so you should make an early reservation. The thick, dry-aged patty is slathered with a healthy dose of l’affiné au chablis cheese, which provides just the right amount of creaminess and lactic funk, and sweet, red wine caramelized onions.

Diner is a classic Williamsburg restaurant that’s located in an old dining car. The nightly-changing menu will be scribbled onto your paper tablecloth by a server with better hair than you, and while anything that person writes down will be fantastic, the best thing here is the one thing that never changes: the burger. It’s a thick but not too-thick piece of meat with sharp cheese, a soft bun, and thick, crispy fries. You could split it with someone, but please don’t.

The “Hot Mess” from Harlem Shake is our pick for the best smash burger in NYC. We never thought ground beef could get this crispy until we tasted the edges on these patties. And the satisfying caramelization in combination with some of the pickled cherry pepper-bacon relish make for a burger that is wildly better than Shake Shack. Plus, the owners all grew up in Harlem, do their best to hire from within the community, and donate part of their profits to tons of local charities and initiatives.