Shanghai’s growth has been turbo-charged, though traces of the old city still remain. A stroll along the waterfront Bund is like a walk through a Shanghai time capsule. Travel further back in time at the 16th-century Yuyuan Garden with its tranquil pools and mellow pavilions, let the incense waft around you at the Confucius Temple or Jade Buddha Temple, or enjoy colonial-era mansions mixed with hipster stores and funky speakeasies in the Shanghai French Concession.

Cities don’t get much more colorful than Shanghai at night, with the towering Shanghai Tower and the Oriental Pearl Tower lit up in hues of purple and pink. Take a night cruise along the Huangpu River, with the Bund on one side and Pudong’s skyscrapers crowding the river bend; soak up the views from the 118th floor of the Shanghai Tower; or pop for a cocktail at a sky-high bar like the 87th-floor Cloud 9.

Yuyuan Garden is a rite of passage on any visit to Shanghai, but bullet trains put the ancient city of Suzhou and its timeless, rock-decked gardens just a 30-minute ride away. Nine Suzhou-area gardens share a UNESCO World Heritage listing. The Lingering Garden and the Humble Administrator’s Garden are considered two of the greatest in all of China, while in the beautiful Tongli Water Town, the Tuisi Garden beckons you to retreat and reflect.

Shanghai’s secret bar scene includes plenty of speakeasies. Speak Low is a classic speakeasy bar you can enter via a sliding bookcase in a cocktail equipment shop, while Sober Company highlights Chinese ingredients from baijiu to maotai at its Sober Society bar, with a super-secret hidden bar for favored guests. For upscale drinks in downhome style, Union Trading Company is a great choice.

Less than an hour by fast bullet train from Shanghai lies the UNESCO World Heritage–listed city of Hangzhou, which blew Marco Polo’s mind when he visited and is still dazzling travelers today. It’s famed for silk and Dragon Well (Longjing) green tea, with tea gardens, pagodas, water lilies, and charming pavilions, and it's even home to the China National Tea Museum. If you visit, consider watching the Impression West Lake show that takes over the lake in the evenings.

During World War II, around 20,000 Jewish refugees fled persecution and landed in Shanghai, most of them in the city’s Hongkou district, which became known as the Shanghai Ghetto. Tours of Jewish Shanghai can unlock this vanished world, visiting the Jewish Refugees Museum in a converted synagogue, admiring structures built by Jewish entrepreneurs, and seeing a monument to the city’s Jewish community in Huoshan Park.

In China, “south of the Yangtze” has long been a byword for a type of laid-back, civilized lifestyle—and China’s water towns encapsulate that, at least when the crowds die down. Canal-side stone houses, scarlet lanterns, and reflecting bridges make towns like Zhouzhuang, Zhujiajiao, Wuzhen Water Town, and Tongli Water Town photography havens as many of them frame the Suzhou River. Stay the night to enjoy them at their quietest.

From craft beer and cocktails to xiao long bao (soup dumplings) and steamed crabs, there’s so much more to Shanghai food than mooncakes and Beijing duck. But, particularly when it comes to street eats, the language barrier can be a real sticking point. Taking a Shanghai food tour lets you hit the hotspots with an expert guide and provides an interpreter who can order for you and ask the questions you want answered. Most food tours include a stop in People's Square which includes many eateries.

Shanghai boasts museums and galleries aplenty. For an overview of classical Chinese art and culture, you can’t go wrong at the gigantic Shanghai Museum, with everything from jade and ceramics to bronze and calligraphy. For something a bit more modern, explore the M50 art district, home to hundreds of indie studios and galleries; the Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre, featuring 80 year’s worth of posters; or the Rockbund Art Museum, one of the city’s leading modern art venues.

Shanghai has nightlife enough to occupy even the most jaded soul, but Chinese contortionists are in demand all over the world, which is why catching an acrobatics show is a must when in Shanghai. Like Cirque du Soleil, performances blend dance, drama, lighting, and costumes with spectacular physical feats. The Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe is one of China’s longest-running outfits, while Shanghai Circus World is a huge indoor circus that offers a unique mix of stunning visuals and special effects.