Need help navigating Lisbon’s drinking scene? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Our local guides have handpicked the absolute best bars and in town, whether you want a beer and a view, a neighborhood dive or a place to dance.
LessThe oldest and only privately owned kiosk in the city, Quiosque de São Paulo has a long history. Built in 1872, the kiosk first served drinks and later small bites of food and snacks. Chef André Magalhães has brought back this tradition, serving affordable petiscos and drinks from the nostalgic, vibrant red kiosk in São Paulo Square. Here is the perfect, low-key spot for sipping a drink al fresco.
Despite its name, Tabernáculo is not a church, but a sanctuary where the local community gathers weekly for Afro-Portuguese food, wine and live music.“Ministering” is Hernâni Miguel, whose past career as a music producer means he’s got a knack for discovering talent, who perform Thurs-Sat. His music, bars and parties put Bairro Alto on the map. Of course, that means Tabernáculo’s music is impeccable, as is the drinks menu.
Housed in a former industrial bakery, Damas has perfected the recipe for good times. Mix one part inventive cuisine, one part live music, and serve with a welcoming vibe. Food and tunes are in sync at this restaurant/bar/music venue, which has drawn a legion of local fans since its 2015 opening. The diverse cultural programming leans heavily on music. Groove to African beats, local bands or electronic music. Just look for the neon sign that lights up the traditional tiled exterior in Graça.
Abílio Coelho is a generous man, offering a smile to every customer at Ginja Sem Rival while pouring the most traditional drink in Lisbon: ginjinha. Since 1890, this historic hole-in-the-wall has been run by the same family in the same location, and Coelho has been serving the famous sour cherry liqueur for most of his life. It’s a smooth drink that can be sipped as an aperitif or digestif, making Sem Rival a perfect pit-stop.
With a dozen tables and a keyboard set up in the corner, Tambarina is one of the few tascas serving up African dishes in the city center – which was once home to a large Cape Verdean community. Tambarina hosts mini-concerts from Thursdays to Sundays: batuque, funaná, colá, coladeira or morna musical styles blare from the speakers, transforming the restaurant into a party after dinner. The festivities are best accompanied by Cape Verdean grog or Tambarina’s homemade punch.
One of Graça’s oldest bars, Botequim is located on the ground floor of a building clad in green tiles – one clue to the history found inside. Once a key meeting point for the Iberian feminist movement, prominent lefty intellectuals all drank, laughed, cried and schemed here. Packed on late weekend evenings, it’s still an ideal spot to have a strong drink – with a refreshingly diverse bar menu and astonishingly large whiskey list.
Located on a steep residential road just east of Graça, Casa Mocambo is spread out on two floors. The café and restaurant on the ground floor offer dishes that are fusion Portuguese-PALOP (Portuguese-speaking African countries). But the party happens in the basement, which hosts numerous African-focused cultural events, like concerts, performances and poetry nights.
Long a meeting point for journalists and politicians, Snob opened in the 1960s. Its cozy, somewhat British style – original wooden cabinets home to a wide range of oddities – makes enjoying a digestif here feel like traveling back to a more clandestine past. The waiter, Albino Oliveira, has been there since 1974, discreetly opening the door nightly to a range of activity, from the intellectual to the adulterous. A rare late-night treat for hungry Lisboetas, Snob’s kitchen is open until 2:30 am.
On Travessa do Monte, natural wine flows as freely as conversation. Much of the bounty at Vino Vero features Portuguese producers or is imported from Italy. The focus in this beautiful spot loved by locals is on natural wine, and a small menu features cheese and charcuterie boards. The burrata with local tomatoes and the mackerel with brioche make for delightful summer evening snacks when paired with a light, local white, handpicked by the owners.
With its large bank of windows, light floods the tables at Zunzum. Outside, the terrace is ideal for an evening drink and petisco, with the River Tejo reflecting beautiful golden rays of sun. Here, chef Marlene Vieira gets creative with Portuguese classics, but the spot is just as perfect for a simple beer to watch the sunset.