It would be hard to find a more knowledgeable guide to the world of agave spirits than Graciela Ángeles of Real Minero, who carries on her family’s generations-long tradition of mezcal making in Oaxaca. These are her spots for tasting and learning.
Less“More than a place to taste mezcal, Ticuchi transports you through various regions of Mexico. Thanks to Gonzalo Goüt’s careful selection, this mezcalería gives you a chance to learn about different techniques, processes, and agaves. Named after a beautiful agave from the Mixteca region in Oaxaca, Ticuchi is a place for those who have gone beyond the enjoyment of mezcal and have developed a passion to learn more about the the spirit.”
“Though its name is not representative of what is served there, El Bósforo transports you to another space and time. Beyond a red velvet curtain lies a bar full of mezcal imbued in candlelight and experimental music—and also a large molcajete where some of the best salsas you may try in your life are prepared. The place is perfect for those who like alternative spots and who are keen on discovering the mezcal selection that Arturo, the venue’s owner, has crafted throughout his wanderings.”
“Cuish is one of the pioneering projects specializing in agave distilled spirits in Oaxaca. Located far from touristy areas, this place recreates how mezcal consumption in the city used to be, when the area had ‘expendios de mezcal.’ Here you can try mezcal Cuish and Agua de Sol, which come from different regions in the state of Oaxaca; the selection is characterized by the flavors of the regions where founders Santiago Matatlán and Félix Monterrosa come from.”
“One of the oldest mezcal brands, El Cortijo opened its mezcalería project in downtown Oaxaca more than a decade ago. Located in a small space just a block from the church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, this can be the starting point of your mezcal tour. El Cortijo has a wide selection of mezcal, both their own and from other Oaxacan producers. Here you’ll get the chance to not only appreciate the drink but also learn about the production processes used and the regions where they come from.”
“Real Minero mezcal has a shop and tasting room in the city of Oaxaca: La Casa Grande. Here you can try the complete line of mezcal produced by the Ángeles Carreño family in the town of Santa Catarina Minas, including some distilled in clay pots. The menu includes mezcal-based cocktails as well as other high-quality spirits, such as tequila, raicilla, and mezcal produced by family ventures from Durango, Michoacán, and Jalisco. There’s also a selection of Mexican wines and local craft beers.”
“If you’re looking for some place that’s more relaxed and you’re interested in learning about other agave products, you must go to La Mezcalerita. Besides the house mezcals from producers in Oaxaca, you’ll also be able to taste pulque and craft beer on the terrace, along with some snacks.”
“One of the oldest and most prestigious mezcalerías in Oaxaca, In Situ has forged its reputation thanks to its selection of mezcal—both local and from other parts of the country—but also because it’s part of a movement vindicating mezcal consumption. Sandra Brena, co-founder of the place and curator of In Situ’s collection, calls herself ‘mezcaciarca’ since she’s been in charge of serving mezcal since she was child. This bohemian and pretension-free place is a must on your list.”
“Mezcaloteca focuses on educating consumers. From the beginning, co-founder Silvia Phillion has made an effort to make people who are interested in the drink also appreciate and recognize the efforts of the families, the communities, the traditional processes, and the particular flavors. Unlike the the rest of the mezcalerías, here you need to book a reservation for a personalized visit. Your mezcal guide will share all their knowledge about the world of maguey and mezcals.”
“Sam Velasco named his recent project, located in the outskirts of the city, Rosita de Borracho: the local name given to a wild herb with a menthol aroma that, infused, provides comfort after a night of partying. In this charming place, you can have a nice and relaxed conversation, enjoying mezcal and observing its effects. With its selection of mezcal, sotol, bacanora, and raicilla, this place is for those who have reached the next stage in their knowledge of mezcal.”
“The name Sabina Sabe alludes to the legendary medicine woman María Sabina, the famous Oaxacan healer who cured with hallucinogenic mushrooms. This bar, more modern and casual, is an unmissable place for those who want to experience the the local approach to cocktails made with mezcal. The selection of mezcal will contribute to the knowledge that you must acquire during your mezcal journey in Oaxaca.”