There are two ways to tackle Indian food in London. The first is to concentrate on its modern Indian restaurants, which are decidedly different from what you would find in Delhi or Mumbai. The bacon naan at Dishoom, (with its thick cut crispy Ginger Pig bacon, oozing fried egg, all wrapped in naan, is the idea every Indian restaurant wished they thought of.

A modern Indian restaurant oozing with flair, the pear and granita bhel at Chet Sharma’s BiBi completely turns the already-chaotic category of chaat on its head.

At Thattukada, an Indian spot in East Ham, you can find incredible KFC (Kerala Fried Chicken), crispier and spicier than anything in Soho.

This popular restaurant is one-third of London's holy trinity of Punjabi-Pakistani grill houses.

This popular restaurant is one-third of London's holy trinity of Punjabi-Pakistani grill houses.

This popular restaurant is one-third of London's holy trinity of Punjabi-Pakistani grill houses.

For the real deal in terms of British Pakistani cuisine, go down the road from some of the other grill houses to Aladin’s Kebabish for the Karachi trinity of haleem, nihari, and qorma.

Taste of Pakistan in Hounslow does monumental Pashtun food: giant specter-shaped slabs of naan that sit at the head of the table like Banquo’s ghost, ready to mop up charsi karahi and chapli kebabs the size of 45 RPM records.

For Bangladeshi food, you can go to Brick Lane, but avoid the tourist traps and eat at the Sylheti canteen Graam Bangla, where you can get river fish curries and fermented condiments that are as pungent and complex as a dish from any central London Thai restaurant.

Good Ghanaian food is mainly found east and south in small community restaurants like Asafo.