These golf courses harken back to the sport's untamed and unpolished roots. Aside each of them are hotels from the Tablet selection with charm and character to match the rugged playing fields they overlook. Spoiler alert: most are in Scotland.
LessGolf purists will recognize the appeal of a trip to Islay rests not on a hotel, but on the Machrie Links, a fabled Willie Campbell course that dates back to 1891, and is basically the epitome of everything championed above. The Machrie Hotel is hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray’s first in Scotland, and it’s fantastically luxurious but impeccably tasteful about it, and historically aware but never old-fashioned.
Known affectionately as the ‘Grand Old Lady’, Marine North Berwick is a beacon of luxury on Scotland’s renowned golf coast that’s been meticulously restored to its original splendor, offering guests a glimpse into its rich past. With its prime position overlooking the Firth of Forth, Bass Rock, and most importantly, the North Berwick West Links, the hotel promises a serene and picturesque retreat in the heart of East Lothian.
Marine Troon is a great retreat for golf enthusiasts and nature lovers alike, offering unobstructed views of the Isle of Arran and proximity to the prestigious Royal Troon Golf Club, a regular host of The Open Championship. Guests can savor the flavors of Scotland at The Rabbit and The Seal, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, which highlights local suppliers and fare. There’s also a luxurious spa and fitness center, with a pool, sauna, squash, and steam rooms.
Dornoch, an hour to the north of Inverness in the Scottish Highlands, has a bit more going on than just golf, but the Links House at Royal Dornoch makes its priorities plain — the first tee of one of the world’s greatest links is a mere fifty feet from its door. The hotel has just 15 rooms, but it’s got personality for days — the main house, in distinctive Sutherland sandstone, dates back to the 1840s.
Pulling into Dornoch Station, you’re immediately immersed in the essentials of the Scottish highlands: sandy coastlines, windswept heaths, here and there a castle, and — of particular relevance here — the Royal Dornoch Golf Club. That’s almost definitely what you’re here for, though the genteel aesthetic of Dornoch Station’s grounds and interiors makes it an attraction in its own right.
Presumably it’s only golfers who will be interested in the Old Course Hotel; a few of you may just be mad for the hills of Fife, but most are here to see the birthplace of the game as we know it. The Old Course at St. Andrews is not just any old course, but (arguably) the original course, and the Old Course Hotel stands so close to these ancient links you’re actually encouraged to hit over it on the 17th hole.
For golfers, the appeal of St. Andrews is self-evident, and Rusacks has presided over the 18th hole of the Old Course since the late 19th century. Today it’s still full of antique atmosphere, but it’s been given an update in the areas that needed one: the rooms are still delightfully historical in style, but the comforts are modern, and the restaurants are classic in inspiration but contemporary in execution.
Greywalls, a stunning Arts and Crafts–style house built in 1901 by the architect Edwin Lutyens, has a rather famous neighbor: the Muirfield golf links, home to the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, the world’s oldest club. The hotel is allocated a limited amount of tee times at Muirfield, but it’s also within shouting distance of other estimable links like North Berwick and Gullane.
Where else but in New Zealand would you actively seek out a working sheep ranch for a bit of rural high luxury? This particular sheep ranch, and its unbelievably dramatic golf course (designed by visionary architect Tom Doak), lies not on some dull green hillside but on the headlands overlooking Hawke’s Bay — a stunning setting in a country that’s not short on stunning settings.
If golf isn’t quite the first thing you think of when you think of Sicily, you’re not alone. But thanks to the work of prominent course architect Kyle Phillips, designer of Scotland’s Kingsbarns, it’ll soon seem like the most natural association in the world. There are 45 excellent holes of pure seaside golf at Verdura, all against the beautiful backdrop of Mediterranean Italy’s olive country.