As a food journalist, cookbook author, and founder of Soif (a wine bar and agency), I always have a recommendation for where to eat, drink, or dance. These are my favorite places right now.
Less📍Added in November: When night falls, the atmosphere inside Candide is soft and warm. Given the ambience, you might expect humble rotisserie cooking. Instead, Candide pays tribute to French classics with a few Italian twists, such as pastas, a gremolata sauce, and a divine dessert of ice cream in Italian brioche. A word of advice? Come back at lunchtime on a Wednesday for the roast chicken, homemade black curry fries, and a creamy, deluxe sauce.
📍Added in November: Here, the stars of the show are the famous Korean dumplings known as mandoo and the tartares. The menu is small but does the trick, like the place itself. At the long counter, the chefs prepare everything to order, mincing beef or blowtorching mackerel. Their rhythm is interrupted only to place steaming baskets of dumplings in front of you, including my personal favorite: the kimchi mandoo with fermented cabbage, tofu, and pork.
📍Added in November: When you leave Montparnasse train station, you have two options: hop on the Metro or wander the neighboring streets. Opt for the second choice, and before you know it, you’ll come across Claire Damon’s chic patisserie. Dive right in to her seasonal desserts, featuring the fruits of the moment (pears in autumn, citrus in winter). A recent favorite: the Corsican lime tart, which hides a delicious meringue beneath its fondant.
📍Added in November: When I was a student in the 5th arrondissement, I was always looking for a cheap lunch, too often at the expense of quality. The neighborhood hasn’t changed; hungry students are still there. But over time, some good eateries have sprouted up. Among them is TRAM Café, which offers a top-notch croque monsieur all day long: lots of cheese, good sandwich bread, quality ham, and a pinch of truffle salt. The pastries, meanwhile, are not to be outdone.
📍Added in November: There aren’t many places in Paris where you can eat truly great seafood. Sur Mer is in my top three and has quickly become a Sunday staple. It’s worth a visit for the seafood platter and wine list alone, but the best part is chef Olive Davoux’s cooking, which transforms these sublime little marine jewels. Go for the raw sea bream with lemon purée or the imperial prawns with sweet-and-sour rhubarb sauce.
This simple, warm, family-run brasserie is one of my favorite spots. Here, the art of service is passed down from mother to son. The same goes for the love of wine: Just take a look at their extensive, well-crafted wine list, which accompanies classic French dishes such as andouillette (a rustic sausage) or bulots (whelks) mayo. Add the ambience and decor of an old Parisian brasserie, and you too will feel right at home.
Of all the restaurants in Belleville, this well-kept secret is my favorite. Hailing from Zhejiang in China, Beilei and Beilei, the couple who run the place, take diners on a tour of the region, while dabbling in Sichuan cuisine. The menu is long, yet I always order the same thing: shouci baocai—hand-torn Chinese cabbage stir-fried in a wok and served in a Sichuan peppercorn sauce—along with their delicious fried tofu.
Brion has all the trappings of an ideal business-lunch spot: comfy seats, quiet atmosphere, and impeccable service. A touch of classicism lingers in the air, a legacy from chef Geoffrey Lengagne’s extensive time in Michelin-starred kitchens. At Brion, he turns each dish into a triumph, thanks in large part to glossy, flavorful, comforting sauces that elevate every plate. It’s proof that the classics stay so for a reason.
Between Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, Les Deux Gares welcomes all types of travelers: those on a coffee break, busy lunchtime workers, and gourmands who come to soak up the spacious terrace. But it’s the cuisine that truly leaves an impression. It appears simple, crafted from a few ingredients, yet chef Jonathan Schweizer always hits the mark. What stands out most are the flavors and freshness of the vegetarian plates, often with a hint of sea breeze.
There are sandwiches, and then there are sandwiches at Chez Aline. Here, French classics—like chicken pot-au-feu or herring-and-potato salad—get tucked into a baguette. Even the classic jambon beurre stands out, thanks to the high-quality ingredients. Come early to choose from the dozen or so sandwiches chalked up on the board. And while you’re at it, soak in the charm of this former horse-butcher shop, still rich with character.