Your essential guide to the best things to do in Porto, from the coolest parks and museums to the bars and restaurants you absolutely can’t miss
LessEven if it weren’t for JK Rowling (who once lived in Porto and credited Livraria Lello with inspiring the Hogwarts library in the Harry Potter books), this would still one of the world’s most famous bookshops. Bang in the city centre, it’s famed above all for its neo-gothic architecture – all carved wood, golden columns and dazzlingly ornate ceilings. But it’s also worth a trip for the epic selection of books, some 300,000 of which fly off the shelves (sadly, not literally) in a normal year.
When it opened in 2005, this mammoth polygon was the first building in Portugal designed from its inception to be dedicated entirely to music. These days, the events programme is as thrilling as ever, spanning everything from classical to avant-garde rock, and there are three resident orchestras: the Orquestra Nacional do Porto, Orquestra Barroca and the Remix Ensemble. Even if you’re not into your tunes, it’s worth hopping on a guided tour of the Rem Koolhas-designed building (€10 per head).
Beer aficionados will certainly want to drop by this so-called ‘library’ of craft brews – and so will foodies, quite frankly. Here, niche bottles are teamed with things like rojões à moda do Minho (pork cubes stewed with white wine and chestnuts), a speciality of Brazilian chef José Pedroso, as well as heftier plates like rump and entrecôte. Inevitably, beer goes into almost everything. The space also serves as a community library, with guests invited to donate and take home books.
The eight hectares of landscaped gardens that make up the Jardins Palácio de Cristal will no doubt keep all the family happy on a day out. First, there’s all the luxuriant greenery itself: beautiful, neat and home to as many peacocks as visitors. And then you’ve got the palace, which hosts ace exhibitions, book fairs and other cultural events, as well as the brilliant Almeida Garrett library. The whole area also boasts unrivalled views across the Douro and city centre. Itinerary: sorted!
Ó! Galeria may recently have had to close its Lisbon space, but its original Porto gallery remains open. Throughout 2020, the gallery proved a heartening presence on social media, handing over its accounts to illustrators for weekly workshops and other videos. Come to their bricks-and-mortar space to discover the next generation of funny, incisive Portuguese illustrators – and help Ó! Galeria survive this unprecedented storm.
No trip to Porto would be complete without a visit to this monumental bell tower, completed in 1763. Designed in the Baroque style by architect Nicolau Nasoni and inspired by Italian-style campaniles, the tower offers some of the city’s best views, 75 metres up (that’s 240 steps). It’s also worth mooching around the body of the church itself, mainly to check out the remarkable marble altarpiece by Manuel dos Santos Porto which looms over the pews.
Built in the early twentieth century on the site of an abandoned convent – of which only the ghost of a nun supposedly remains – São Bento has a fine, respectable granite exterior. But then you head inside. And... just... wow. The walls and ceilings are decorated with more than 20,000 tiles depicting significant moments in Portuguese history, painted in the blue-and-white ‘azulejo’ style by Jorge Colaço. This must be one of the world’s most spectacular train stations.
You’d struggle find a more scenic spot in Porto than this traditional Portuguese restaurant with a terrace on the stairs leading up to São Nicolau church. From here, you can look out over the river as friendly waiters serve up things like freshly fried cod balls that arrive almost as soon as you’re ordered. The mains of octopus with rice (€15.50) and the house beef stew with peas (€12.50) are unmissable.
With its 83 hectares of green space right on the waterfront, the serene Parque da Cidade is your best bet for a jog, a picnic or just a whiff of fresh sea breeze in central Porto. There are more than 10km of walking and cycling trails here, as well as a large lake where you can feed the ducks. The Soundwich terrace is where to head for tapas or sandwiches ‘ideated’ by an array of top Portuguese chefs, while an organic market takes over the central swath of the park on Sundays.
More than 150,000 visitors pass through the doors of this port cellar every year – and for good reason. Historic brand Sandeman produces some of the finest sweet stuff out there, and now its huge HQ doubles up as museum that tells their story through a remarkable collection of paintings, photographs, ceramics and bottles. Ever wondered about the origins of Don, that mysterious caped figure on the brand’s labels? Head on a tour here and you may well find out.