Not sure where to start in the German capital? We've got you covered with the absolute best things to eat, see and do in Berlin
LessAfter Tempelhof airport ceased operation in 2008, the city opened the runways to the public. Now you can stroll down the runways where Second World War Stuka dive-bombers took off and where the Western Powers dropped supplies for the city’s 2.5 million residents in 1948. Today, the 368-hectare open space of runways and grasslands is much enjoyed by walkers, kite-surfers, cyclists, runners, skaters and goshawks, with a beer garden, dog-friendly areas and a baseball field.
Make like a Berliner and stretch your legs with a stroll, jog or cycle through the city’s most famous park, which comes into its own during spring and summer. Whether you’re hunting famous monuments, a beer and a sausage, or a spot to sunbathe naked, you’ll find what you’re looking for. This five-kilometre (three-mile) circuit will return you to your starting point for your next adventure within an hour or so. Don’t worry if you get lost – the park is full of maps with ‘you are here’ markers.
Founded in 1951, the Berlinale (officially called the Internationale Filmfestspiele Berlin) is the world’s most popular film festival in terms of sheer numbers in attendance. A major fixture on the global cultural calendar, it sees Potsdamer Platz transformed into a glittering stage that plays host to film-industry names each February. Screenings also take place in other parts of the city, including Alexanderplatz, at the Zoo Palast cinema in Tiergarten and at the silent green Kulturquartier.
During the summer months, the city’s largest public parks – including Volkspark Friedrichshain, Hasenheide in Neukölln and Rehberge in Wedding – unveil their freiluftkino (open-air cinemas). Grab a beer and some snacks, relax in the sun and enjoy the summer evening Berlin-style. Titles are mostly bigger hits from the previous season, so try the likes of Neues Off, Odeon Kino or Moviemento for a more arthouse experience.
Frederick the Great’s summer grounds make for an unforgettable day out in Potsdam, the state capital of Brandenburg, just an S-Bahn ride southwest from central Berlin. As well as touring the palace itself, guests can spend hours getting lost in its gardens and the ornate Bildergalerie and Neue Kammern (‘new chambers’). A trip to the lush grounds is welcome after a few days of pavement-pounding in urban Berlin.
There’s a lot to love about Kino International. Originally built and operated under the GDR, the cinema was then home to unmatched technical equipment, and it remains a popular choice for film festival premieres. The beauty of Kino International, however, is in its status as both a cultural and architectural landmark. Drop by to take in the breathtaking cantilevered show windows, then take in the gorgeous interiors, before catching up on Hollywood’s latest offerings.
In recent years, many Berliners have said goodbye to the traditional German breakfast of cold cuts and bread rolls, and welcomed a legion of top-tier eateries with exciting culinary delights. But while brunch in Berlin may have taken off, making way for some mouth-watering hangover cures, that doesn’t mean that every café serving avocado toast is worth your while. Try House of Small Wonder in Mitte for a gorgeous breakfast with a Japanese twist.
When it comes to Berghain, forget everything you know about clubbing and go with an open mind and comfortable shoes. The queue can last for hours, the door staff can be intimidating, and the general attitude is bolshy, but brave it all and you’re in for the night (and morning) of your life. This dystopian legend is a techno temple. Don’t show up too drunk or be disheartened if you’re turned away: the club is immensely popular, and the bouncers limit how many partygoers are allowed in.
During the late-nineteenth century, 14 covered markets were opened to replace traditional outdoor ones and improve hygiene standards. Local residents saved this one from closure in 2009, filling it with stalls serving locally sourced veg and meats. It’s also home to the excellent Heidenpeters microbrewery and the Sironi bakery from Milan. The themed events, including the hugely popular Street Food Thursday, get crowded but are well worth the trip.
Germany is the international capital of avant-garde theatre, and the most renowned of its many lavishly state-funded theatres is the striking Schaübuhne. A former cinema – built in 1928 in a Bauhaus style – it became home to the radical Schaübuhne ensemble in the late 70s, and has been run since 1999 by influential director Thomas Ostermeier. The Schaübuhne plays host to first-rate leftfield names from Germany and beyond – Switzerland’s Milo Rau and Britain’s Katie Mitchell are notable regulars.