There’s so much good food to eat in Portland. Start with this list of buzzy Thai spots, fancy tasting menus, incredible food carts, and more.
LessFueled by smoked meats, live-fire cooking with Haitian accents, and a former Top Chef contestant in the kitchen, Kann is by far the biggest Portland opening of 2022. It’s tough to get a reservation, but the small space often, filled with a jungle’s worth of greenery, feels like a party. Bring a few friends and start with fruity cocktails and salt cod pate, followed by a large sharable dish from the hearth like the coffee-rubbed smoked beef ribs.
The latest debut from the Nimson empire (Eem, Phuket Cafe, Langbaan) introduces the Thai-Chinese cuisine you’ll find in Bangkok’s Chinatown—a.k.a. Yaowarat. The prices are pure 2024 Portland, though. While you’re not going to sweat on plastic chairs while prawns are wok-fired in front of your eyes, a trip to this fun spot in Montavilla is your chance to enjoy grilled squid swimming in spicy dressing, the silkiest mapo tofu you’ve ever tasted, and bright curries like Yaowarat’s green version.
Portland has no shortage of spots to grab a steamy bowl of phở. But nothing beats Hà VL. This Vietnamese place on 82nd has a daily changing rotation of two or three soups, which might not necessarily include phở. The options could be bún chả ốc with snail meatballs, tofu, and tomatoes on a Thursday, or bún cari gà, coconut chicken curry soup, on a Wednesday. To prevent any broth-based heartache, go early if you’re set on a particular soup since they will sell out by lunch.
The chef duo behind Hollywood’s Xiao Ye gives a delicious lesson in “first-generation American food.” Rigatoni all’amatriciana is livened up with preserved chiles, and seasonal Jolyn’s Favorite Noodle V. 1, a riff on late-night meals made with pantry staples like black vinegar and chili crisp, is both tasty and comforting. Order the mini madeleines made from masa and mochi, served with whipped butter and jalapeño powder, to really understand their playful vision.
The city’s Mexican restaurant scene leans toward overstuffed burritos and birria, and Comedor Lilia is a nice change of pace. The ambitious restaurant from República & Co on the South Waterfront is the answer for upscale Mexican food that goes deep into the hyper-seasonal Pacific Northwest thing. The daily changing menu might feature Hakurei turnips in mole or a carrot tlacoyo, moodily plated with pipian negro, black truffle shavings, and a pop of orange carrot foam.
If you only have one night in town, this North Portland Thai barbecue spot is worth the (inevitable) wait. They don’t take reservations, but put your name on the list before heading to nearby Migration Brewing or The Box Social while you wait it out. The menu is full of dishes like burnt-end brisket white curry, sweet & sour fried chicken, and cocktails that arrive garnished with mini-umbrellas.
Portland doesn’t really have strong pizza traditions, which means you’ll never be subjected to a Chicago deep-dish vs. NYC slice debate. If anything could stand as Portland-style pizza though, that’d be Lovely’s Fifty Fifty on N. Mississippi, an ideal place for taking a lunch break in one of the big wooden booths. Expect tangy sourdough crust, no sauce, and seasonal toppings like cherry tomato confit, summer squash, and orange-infused olive oil.
Jeju, from the team behind Han Oak, is not your average Korean BBQ spot. They do a $75 set menu and butcher whole animals in-house, so depending on the night, you might find sausage made from off-cuts or glazed pork belly, grilled behind the counter on your plate. While sliced meat, eaten bo ssam-style, is the main attraction, the banchan, including blistered padron peppers with candied anchovies, smashed cucumbers, and chile crisp, are Scottie Pippin-level sidekicks.
This kappo-style restaurant seats only 15 people, doesn't take reservations for more than two, and flies in high-quality seafood from Japan while still keeping things relatively affordable—almost everything on the menu is less than $20. Rotating specials like golden-eye snapper and half beak will satisfy the sushi nerd in your life, while the saba battera, a house-cured mackerel served in a square-shaped roll, is buttery enough to win over that friend who always sticks to California rolls.
If you want to splurge a bit on dinner, go to Le Pigeon. This East Burnside restaurant serves some of the best French food in the city, in a space that has bare brick walls, communal tables, and a tiny open kitchen. The tasting menu changes daily, so you might see things like halibut with kimchi glazed pork belly or beef tartare with saffron pickled potatoes. The iconic foie gras profiteroles with caramel are always served as a meal-ender and we wouldn’t want it any other way.