In Lisbon, there are tascas and then there are fine dining restaurants—Canalha is the perfect medium between these two extremes. This step-above-casual Belém spot with marble tables and wood-paneled walls serves phenomenal shareable plates without any pretentiousness. The seasonal menu is simple but refined, and the high quality of the ingredients is what shines, like the smoked eel that tastes like bacon, or the two-year-aged tuna tiradito, marinated in soy sauce and sesame seeds.

There are two different ways to have a meal at Sem: at the wine bar or at the restaurant, which are located in the same building separated by a window on a busy street in Alfama. Make a night of it by booking a table on the restaurant side for their seven-course tasting menu, or keep it casual at the bar where you’ll find a smaller food menu written on a chalkboard. They change the dishes seasonally, but you can expect things like honey roasted carrots with pomegranate or razor clam escabeche.

Prado paved the way for farm-to-table restaurants in Lisbon. You’ll find it right next to a 12th-century historic church in the hilly Mouraria neighborhood, with a tight menu that changes seasonally. Book this spot as one of your nicer diners while you’re in town, and plan on sharing a bunch of plates, like the beef tartar sandwiched between dried cabbage, smoked eel with melon and cucumber, and Alentejano pork with turnips, plus a bottle of some natural wine.

Not going to Ramiro when you’re in Lisbon is like going to the beach and not putting your toes in the water. It’s the most important seafood restaurant in the entire city, and the line usually stretches around the block. (The wait is real, but worth it.) Start out with the stuffed crab, gambas à guilho, and some bread—it’s great, so don’t be shy about eating the entire tray. Two other things that should be on your table: the medium rare steak sandwich and a vodka lemon sorbet.

You’ll see locals at Praia no Parque for just about every occasion—celebrating something momentous, having a business lunch on someone else’s dime, or just eating with friends. The menu’s full of plates like angus ribeye, king crab salad, steak tartar, and oysters, but the experience of eating here is far from stuffy—you’ll see shots on tables, bottle sparklers, and diners waving napkins in the air to the sound of “Sweet Caroline”. Book ahead of time, since it gets full almost every night.

Bairro means “neighborhood” in Portuguese, and this huge space housing four restaurants is chef Jose Avillez’s take on that. Taberna is a casual, lively lunch or dinner spot that’s outfitted like a gourmet deli. Páteo is a sun-lit hall where you can linger over a plate of salted cod for a few hours over dinner. Pizzaria Lisboa serves, unsurprisingly, pizza, and Mini Bar is a theatrical dinner spot with a 12-course tasting menu. If you’re in town for a few days, try to hit them all up if you can.

Bairro do Avillez is great, but Belcanto is José Avillez’s crown jewel. There are three different menus offered inside this elegant dining room that’s housed in an old monastery: two tastings and one à la carte, with dishes like lobster paired with white beans, marrow, and caviar, and razor clams with lupin bean ice shavings. Book a table in advance, and plan on leaving your afternoon or the rest of your evening free. This is a main-event kind of place you’ll want to tailor your day around.

Different is the best word to describe Come to Tricky’s, and not in the way your mom would describe your new tattoo. This spot reflects the new international Lisbon, where people from all over the world came for a trip, fell in love with the city, and never left. Head here for things like tortellini with Jerusalem artichokes or octopus with chickpeas, and expect a good time—the vibe is relaxed and fun, and the music is cheesy in a way that you’ll actually enjoy.

The menu at Boi e Cavalo is short, sweet, and changes seasonally. Order the gnocchi with vanilla and dried tuna loin, as well as the turbot with achiote and lemon pickle to start—the latter is a spin on a classic Portuguese dish that’s traditionally made with codfish. The cozido rice with pink prawns should be your top priority for mains. It’s another contemporary take on a historic dish that’s been eaten throughout the streets of Alfama for centuries.

Bistro 100 Maneiras is an easy spot for dinner with a ton of food options and cocktails presented in an art deco picture book-style menu. Start with something like the Clockwork Orange that mixes vodka, pepper, mandarine, and basil alongside the bread basket, which comes with a greasy-in-a-good-way housemade pig-fat sauce. Order some meat for your main—the staff will make sure you approve of your cut of beef before throwing it into the fire—and a side of the truffled potato mille-feuille.