A decent chunk of north London go all misty-eyed at the mention of Trullo. Who knew that an elegant Tuscan trattoria on Highbury Corner with white tablecloths, a loose atmosphere, and rustic Italian food would be such a hit? Actually, that reads quite compellingly. It’s worth knowing that Trullo is the older sibling to Padella. But there are no queues here. No counters either. This is a grown-up Italian restaurant with two floors of space for lunch and dinner play.

Maybe the £5 house negronis will make you think, “yes these people get it”. Or the heaped bowl of grated parmesan that arrives wordlessly with your tagliatelle al ragu. Perhaps it will be the gargantuan hunk of lusciously sweet and bitter tiramisu that comes later. The point is, there are any number of things that can make you feel completely comfortable at Trattoria Brutto.

There’s something timeless about the River Café. When are people not going to want to eat veal taglierini and a bit of lip-smacking lemon tart? Or crispy taleggio and potato pizzetta, followed by chargrilled lamb with borlotti beans? Especially with the Thames on their left, and someone Bafta-nominated to their right. From its beautiful riverside views to its legendary chocolate nemesis cake, this richly flavoured Hammersmith restaurant was one of the first to make regional Italian in the city.

A dimly lit New York-Italian spot that feels like an invite-only members' club, The Dover is all smiles and "buon appetito" from the friendly servers, and excellent flavours from the kitchen. Snacks like a mini butter-drenched lobster roll are perfect to start, and we’re big fans of all of the fish dishes, especially the dover sole. Inside the dark dining room, lit solely by tall candles, couples flirt on intimate corner tables and friends poke their heads around the prawn cocktail tower.

We try not to make a habit of infuriating caveats but this one is unavoidable. Ciao Bella doesn’t make fantastic Italian food but it’s probably the best-feeling Italian restaurant in London. The old-school institution on Lamb’s Conduit Street is loud and proud, sloppy and full of spaghetti. If you leave Ciao Bella analysing your spaghetti con polpette, then something has gone very wrong. This restaurant is so much more valuable than a bowl of perfect handmade pasta.

Manteca has a large dining room that feels constantly full. There are people crowding into booths for lunches that involve pappardelle with duck ragu; early days relationships, hiding parts of themselves but sharing focaccia; and counter-cruisers ordering two plates of this, two glasses of that. The Shoreditch spot is stylish and assured, with accomplished, comforting dishes—deep-fried pig’s head with mostarda and brown crab cacio e pepe—that are just a little creative.

Ombra is that person in your friendship group who can pull off curtain bangs—really cool, but not trying too hard. It’s where we want to be every Friday night as bottles of wine are ferried to candlelit tables of four who are puncturing puffy gnocco fritto, and spritzes are delivered to couples dissecting a fried artichoke layer by layer. Expect your repressed hoarder tendencies to surface as you guard, sorry share, all the excellent food at this Hackney spot.

Like Gaga on a campaign trail, Luca is glam. A sophisticated Clerkenwell spot with lots of polished surfaces and dark wooden booths, this place specialises in cooking Italian food using British produce, with elements of British cuisine thrown in. Are you keeping up? Good. To get peak enjoyment out of Luca, get a seat at the charming bar with your favourite person, and order the outrageous parmesan fries and a bowl of the exceptional rigatoni with pork sausage ragu.

Bocca Di Lupo opened in 2008, but for a London restaurant to become a classic in that amount of time isn't ordinary. And that’s what’s special about this Soho go-to: it’s like it’s always been there and always will be. Although the dining room looks a little formal, it’s all very relaxed. In fact, Bocca feels a bit like a family wedding: a lovely ‘proper-ish’ environment with kids dropping wild boar ragu all over the tablecloth and some elderly suits in the corner.

Tucked away on one of those cobbled Shad Thames streets where you’re just as likely to stumble into a Sam Smith’s pub as you are a mind-blowingly scenic All Bar One, is Legare. It’s a cosy restaurant with simple, Ikea-ish furnishings, making delicious regional Italian food. Much of the dinky space is filled with dates sharing crudo and deciding whether to share a second brown crab taglioni. Do. The menu isn’t big but nor is it boring, and you’re best off trying a bit of everything.