Old guards staging comebacks; newer arrivals championing underrepresented flavors: Boston is no stranger to ambitious chefs setting up shops, and many next-level restaurant openings made it an especially exciting food city in 2023.
LessAfter a three-year hiatus, James Beard Award-nominated restaurateur Garrett Harker and co. launched a rebooted version of their beloved French-American brasserie in a swanky new spot in October. The menu carries over nostalgic hits like salt cod fritters, skinny French fries, and butterscotch bread pudding, and the marble-clad dining room channels a timeless aesthetic.
Bar Vlaha is led by the James Beard Award-winning team behind Mediterranean wine bar Krasi and all about lesser-seen Greek specialities. Its name is an ode to northern Greece’s nomadic Vlach community, which explains its earthy menu, heavy on grilled lamb, goat and sheep milk cheeses, plus a deep wine list featuring many Greek imports.
Comfort Kitchen was one of Boston’s first—and hottest—new openings of 2023, confirmed by its place on The New York Times’s annual best restaurant list and recent Boston magazine award. The cafe-restaurant stands out for its eclectic African diaspora-inspired menu—the jerk-roasted duck leg with rice and Haitian pickled vegetable relish and yassa chicken with cassava dumplings are must-orders.
Boston’s chicest new tearoom launched in early March and comes from Drink alums Patrick Brewster and Lee Morgan. Its intricately decorated storefront stands out in Faneuil Hall—but rest assured, it’s not just for tourists, judging from some recent Boston Globe love. Silver Dove is locally adored for its fit-for-a-king coronation chicken, cucumber sandwiches, and 30 kinds of loose-leaf tea, which include rare blends from Kyoto and London.
The third edition of one of Boston’s best seafood spots opened its Cambridge location in April, bringing pitch-perfect New England classics to a sprawling bi-level space in Kendall Square. Row 34 is led by renowned chef Jeremy Sewall, who is on a quest to serve regional delicacies that haven’t received much attention, like monkfish and jonah crab.
Taking over one of Boston’s most storied restaurant spaces—one that belonged to chef Todd English’s Mediterranean icon, Olives—is no easy feat. But this glamorous Italian steakhouse stepped up to the challenge. Prima is a velvety, sceney celebration spot and has been perpetually packed since it opened in June.
This kosher tavern and house of learning (Lehrhaus regularly offers classes on topics like Judeo-Arabic literature and Jewish history in the Roman era) is all about food from the Jewish diaspora, spotlighting countries like Mexico, Yemen, and Ethiopia. Lehrhaus was co-founded by rabbi Charlie Schwartz and journalist Joshua Foer who brought their unique vision to a homey, book-lined space in April.