Downtown Asheville is a maze of murals, museums, bookstores, and boutiques—and the soundtrack is its buskers and drum circles. With more than 100 restaurants, Asheville sightseeing offers a lot to explore. Get the low-down with a walking tour, or follow the crowds to the artisan shops of the Grove Arcade, the domed Basilica of Saint Lawrence, and the Asheville Pinball Museum (which doubles as an arcade). By night, hit one of the city’s rooftop bars, or keep things spicy with a ghost tour.

Asheville is in the Goldilocks zone when it comes to live music: small enough that it offers intimate music venues, but large enough that it can still attract big names. The iconic venue here is The Orange Peel, where you might catch acts like Owl City or The Wallflowers. There’s also Asheville Music Hall, which will get you on the ground floor of local acts about to break big. Consider a music tour to dive deeper into the city’s epic music scene.

The River Arts District—aka RAD—was once an industrial neighborhood full of warehouses and mills. Local artists, looking for cheap rent, turned this space into what it is today: one of the city’s most vibrant districts. Bordering the French Broad River, RAD is full of art galleries and studios, plus beloved restaurants like White Duck Taco Shop and 12 Bones Smokehouse. Keep in mind RAD is surprisingly large; the Gray Line Trolley stops at two different River Arts District locations.

The Biltmore Estate, once home to the Vanderbilt family, covers 4 acres (1 hectare)—and that’s just including the mansion itself, with 250 rooms. Needless to say, tours of the country’s largest home can take a while so be sure to block off at least a half-day for this regal adventure. You’ll get to sink into the Gilded Age, marveling at the family castle and its 33 bedrooms and 65 fireplaces, not to mention the 8,000-acre (3,240-hectare) property at large—its grounds, winery, and horse stables.

Dubbed “America's Favorite Scenic Drive,” the Blue Ridge Parkway winds for 469 miles (754 kilometers) from Shenandoah National Park to the Great Smoky Mountains, and it zooms right through Asheville. There are four entrances in the Asheville area, each leading to fabulous views, incredible hiking trails, overlooks and picnic spots, and, come autumn, some of the most colorful fall foliage around. To skip the driving, let a guide show you the parkway’s greatest hits, like its waterfalls.

Some say Asheville has the most breweries per capita in the US. Your only challenge in finding a lager, ale, or stout is knowing which direction to head. While most venues like Green Man Brewery and Twin Leaf Brewery are worth the hype, you can’t go wrong hopping on a brewery tour to sample some of the city’s most beloved pints. Tours typically come with behind-the-scenes action and a free drink or two, guaranteeing a sudsy-good time.

Asheville sits on the meandering French Broad River. To its north and east, the Pisgah National Forest; to its south and west, the Great Smoky Mountains. Waterfalls, state parks and nature reserves, and craggy peaks are everywhere—so too are hiking trails, climbing and rafting routes, and scenic drives. From hiking along the Blue Ridge Parkway to mountaintop yoga to rafting the French Broad Gorge, you’ve got far more options than you probably have time (but do make time for at least one!).

If RAD is all about artists, West Asheville is all about character. Lined with vintage shops, independent bookstores, and plenty of vinyl, this is one of Asheville’s trendiest and most up-and-coming neighborhoods. It’s also one of the most walkable—simply hop onto Haywood Road and get walking. You’ll find dozens of restaurants, coffee shops and cafes, breweries, cocktail joints, and more on this side of the French Broad River, all rivaling downtown. What you won’t find? A single chain hotel.

For a distinct alternative to downtown’s buzz, check out Asheville’s Montford Area Historic District. Known for its affluent ambiance, Montford comes chock-full of Queen Anne, Arts and Crafts, and Colonial Revival homes—some of which have been turned into B&Bs. Asheville’s Shakespeare Festival happens at Montford Park, and if you look closely within the neighborhood’s Riverside Cemetery, you’ll find literary figures like Thomas Wolfe and O. Henry.

Asheville may be most well-known for its beer scene, but its cuisine is pretty revered, too. From seriously good barbecue (Luella’s) to Southern comfort food (Biscuit Head) to James Beard noms (Chai Pani, Buxton Hall), the city has a special appreciation for food that feels good. Then there are the city’s fantastic coffee shops (Rowan), bakeries (French Broad Chocolate Lounge), and the list goes on. Get a local to show you the ropes, or simply follow the crowds—and your nose.