Carefully crafted omakase, no-frills Italian classics, and hard-to-find Yemeni dishes make up the highlights at our local editor’s favorite Boston restaurants.
LessMIDA won the hearts of Bostonians from its quaint South End location in 2016 and has since expanded into neighborhoods in East Boston and even beyond the city limits. The modern Italian restaurant lands a spot on many shortlists thanks to a carefully curated wine and amaro list, but the MVP is most definitely chef-owner Douglass Williams, who puts out thoughtful, no-frills Italian favorites like bucatini all amatriciana and classic pasta puttanesca.
An unassuming North Cambridge spot is the site of an 18-course omakase menu steered by sushi chef Gary Lei, who previously worked his magic on over-the-top nigiri presentations at Back Bay favorite Uni. It doesn’t take long to notice Lei’s personal touches on the chef’s choice menu, featuring the freshest seafood, plus artistic garnishes. At Umami, omakase is straight-up theater—sit around the sushi counter and let the chef’s masterpieces leave you spellbound.
James Beard-nominated Comfort Kitchen is home to a cross-cultural menu you won’t find anywhere else in Boston. One of my go-tos is the the yassa chicken, a tender-cooked Senegalese chicken dish that now has icon-status all over West Africa and is a tribute to chef-partner Kwasi Kwaa’s Ghanaian heritage. Meanwhile, the knockout potato curry cake pays homage to managing partner Biplaw Rai’s Nepali roots.
Tucked away in a quieter corner of bustling Inman Square, this Spanish tapas spot charms with eclectic decor and warm hospitality. The expansive tapas menu features classic cold and hot bites from around the country, but leans heavily on Catalonia, a region on the northeastern side of the country. Savor the delicate bites with a glass of wine, cocktail, or drink from a porrón, a communal drinking pitcher with a long spout for pouring directly into people’s mouths.
When chef Will Gilson opened this restaurant in 2012, he had one vision in mind: to give old-school New England classics a modern twist. More than a decade later, he’s crushed it, judging from the James Beard nomination and Boston magazine award, among others. No meal here is complete without the Parker House rolls and swordfish pastrami, made with the fatty belly part of swordfish that is frequently caught off New England’s coast—nods to the restaurant’s local roots.
Chef David Punch honed his skills at farm-to-table star Ten Tables before opening his own restaurant in the heart of Newton center in 2011. Sycamore’s low-key and fuss-free French bistro food helped it become a neighborhood mainstay, and it’s a place I’m repeatedly drawn to for delicious and sophisticated dishes that feature seasonal ingredients, like my wintertime favorite, French veal and black truffle sausage with savoy cabbage fondant and parsnip puree.
For most Bostonians, Yemeni cuisine is an under-the-radar category that deserves more attention—that’s where Baba Al-Yemen comes in. The cozy Kenmore Square haunt opened in 2022 and quickly caught my attention for its lamb mandi, a dish consisting of juicy lamb shank over turmeric basmati rice, and aqdah dajaj, which is shredded chicken stew served with a side of fresh house-baked bread.
This Harvard Square legend has served India’s greatest hits since 2011. Help yourself to a ginormous serving of goat biryani or tender dhaba chicken, and don’t skip the flavorful vegetarian curries, which include aloo gobi rich with herbs and spices. The Maharaja’s expansive subcontinental menu and impeccable service are the reasons I keep going back for more.
This homey restaurant in the South End received James Beard Foundation recognition in 2023, just one year into its opening. Chef Yisha Siu’s food is unapologetically Yunnanese, inspired by the province’s mountains and valleys, which create a unique climate for wild mushrooms and fermented delicacies. Also expect aromatics commonly seen in food from Southeast Asia, which has a strong influence over Yunnanese food, as you savor Siu’s spicy and sour delicacies.
Hyper-local Forage puts sourcing front and center, using mostly New England-grown ingredients and highlighting local foodways. Its menu is seasonal, which means you’ll feast on fiddleheads in the spring and squash in the winter. When you’re up for a more adventurous meal, get the tasting menu, which can be adjusted to accommodate pescatarian, vegan, vegetarian, and omnivore preferences.