We’ve all heard about Iberian ham and Valencian paella, but where to find the best of Barcelona’s kitchens? Culinary Backstreets has you covered. Our local guides reveal the must-try dishes of the Catalan capital, and where to track them down.
LessHefty veal and pork meatballs, creamy artichoke or eggplant omelets, hearty bocadillos stuffed with meat and veggies: these esmorzars de forquilla, or “fork breakfasts,” are how a Catalonian might start their day – especially at Can Ros, a tapas-and-bocadillos joint that’s open from 7am-midnight. Forget simple brunches of coffee and croissant, and come ready to eat. This traditional, and hearty, fork breakfast has made Can Ros most popular among locals.
The tortilla de patatas, or truita de patata in Catalan, holds a place of honor for Spaniards. At its most basic, the Spanish tortilla is made by frying thickly sliced potatoes and eggs in olive oil. One neighborhood temple devoted to this potato omelet is Les Truites in Sant Gervasi, run by the Miró family. Since 1978, they have developed 180 variations on the dish – all with free-range eggs. Try the classic thick potato with caramelized onion or the truffle tortilla with foie gras.
Traditionally, a homey, deep-fried dish made of leftovers, croquetas (croquettes) arouse deep childhood feelings of nostalgia for Barcelonians. Readily found at tapas joints and bodegas all over the city, they are best when crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside. In the case of Nil Ros at Pollería Fontana, instead of leftovers, a whole chicken goes into making his wonderfully elevated croquettes – as well as a touch of Iberian ham. Also addictive are the mushroom and cheese croquetas.
The colorful, 1960s-era carbonated water siphons everywhere in Barcelona aren’t just retro decor – they’re the symbol of our beloved vermut ritual. The phrase hacer el vermut (literally “to do the vermouth”) has for decades described not only that delicious fortified wine, but any kind of pre-lunch aperitif. The Morro Fi project represents a new generation of vermouth in the city, with its excellently curated drinks, tapas and products. A small, sleek spot to partake in a classic ritual.
Barcelona’s bodegas are living monuments to the city’s history. Locals frequent their neighborhood bodega for the affordable bulk wine from the barrels to take home, vermut with anchovies, or other drinks and tapas. At Bodega Salvat in Sants, large wooden wine barrels perched on high shelves almost touch the ceiling, looking down on those drinking below with more than 100 years of local stories to tell. They still sell bulk wine, as well as an excellent house vermouth and dark beer.
Conservas, or foods preserved in cans and jars, are in the DNA of Catalonians and represent a culinary art that incorporates very high-quality natural ingredients and artisanal methods – one that has nothing to do with the canned tuna in US supermarkets. Quimet & Quimet gives this artisanal process the star treatment in its nearly 80 tapas, sandwiches and combination platters. Check out the bodega’s hard-to-find zamburiñas (small scallops from Galicia) or Granada sturgeon, to name a few.
Taktika Berri delights palates with tasty bite-sized pintxos, and Basque patrons are a guarantee of the venue’s irrefutable authenticity. Pintxos are tapas affixed to a piece of bread with a toothpick. Basque tradition dictates that they are presented open-air, spanning the length of the bar. So snag a plate, order a txakoli (Basque white wine) and grab what you can, being sure to try la gilda, the quintessential pintxo: anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper. Just be sure to arrive before opening.
Like any Mediterranean city, seafood is a big part of Barcelona’s cuisine, whether brought in from the untamed waters of Galicia, or fished from more local waters. For the freshest catch in Barcelona, head to the nautical-themed “Sailor’s Corner,” which has strong ties with local fisherman. Order the iconic grilled and fried fisherman’s tapas: a medley of clams, sardines, octopus, and more. Fried fish, fish stews, seafood casseroles and exquisite rice dishes are also hot items.
Lined with Valencian tiles and wooden rafters, this family affair in Sant Antoni is cozy and convivial. The open kitchen at the far end churns out Catalan-Valencian recipes that deftly navigate between familiarity and modernity. They are renowned for their rice dishes: and that means the famous Valencian paella. We’re also fans of the rice with sepionets (baby cuttlefish), tender garlic and clams, as well as fideuá and other seafood rice dishes. All are meant to be shared. Just like home.
An iconic tapas bar with a fantastic terrace in Nou Barris, La Esquinica is the perfect spot: great tapas, good prices, personable waiters and a familiar neighborhood feeling. Cured, fried or grilled, the tapas are simply made and delicious. Specials cover the spectrum of Spanish classics, from Galician-style octopus to Andalucian chipirones (fried baby squid), Cantabrian anchovies and Aragones delicacies. Most famous are the patatas bravas. No secrets, just quality.