8AM : Start the day the real Venetian way, standing at the bar of Caffé Lavena on Piazza San Marco, sipping a cappuccino and pretending to admire the fabulous Barovier&Toso chandelier while listening in on the conversations between regulars and waiters.
9AM : Make an appointment at Franco Puppato’s workshop for a tailor-made jacket or suit, and to see the master at work: Puppato has been deemed world champion in his trade no less than seven times. A separate universe, just near Campo San Lucas, which has unfortunately been overrun by fast fashion..
10AM : Pay homage to the architect Carlo Scarpa at the Museo Querini Stampalia. Visit the first floor, laid out by the master, without forgetting to visit the garden, the library and the 18th-century salons. Then enjoy a contemporary art exhibition and pick up a beautiful souvenir at the Qshop.
11AM : Visit the glass artist Massimo Micheluzzi, to admire his latest creations and snap up some Micheluzzi Glass tableware, designed by his daughters.
NOON : Cool down over a spritz, a proper one, accompanied by cicchetti, among the local crowd at Schiavi – standing outside, of course.
1PM : Appetite duly whetted, take a seat at Locanda Montin osteria – inside if the weather’s not cooperative, under the arbour if the sun is out. The atmosphere, clientele and cuisine are as Venetian as can be. A touch of history and conviviality, with the cosy indoor dining room covered in paintings and prints.
2PM : For dessert, indulge in a delectable Chantilly-covered gianduiotto at Gelateria Nico on the Zattere – to savour seated on the terrace.
3PM : Take advantage of being across from Giudecca to hop on a vaporetto bound for Spazio Punch and Michela Rizzo’s gallery, to get a taste of Venice’s contemporary art scene.
5PM : Hurry over to marvel at the frescoes, marbles, stuccoes and busts of the Museo di Palazzo Grimani, a palace whose plan draws inspiration from the domus of ancient Rome and the palaces of the Roman Renaissance. It is one of the few Venetian museums to close late (7pm).
7PM : Choose a drink at Alchemia, the cocktail bar at the Ca’ di Dio hotel, decorated by Patricia Urquiola and served by a team of merry mixologists. Opt for one made with Venetian gin, then sit back and enjoy at leisure.